Friday, December 29, 2006

Lunar Eclipse





The soft tropical night hung in the air with the sound of frogs and insects cascading their chirping like a fresh steng (creek) burbling toward a river. The inky indigo night was flooded with the luminous moon, slowly and steadily rising towards it's zenith and a celestial event that boded auspiciousness. This was Ra Who Om Jon, a lunar eclipse or the Monkey God Ra Hu eating the moon. A rare event considered fortunate and a night when prayers and wishes could be sent to the gods to be heard and answered. The story began a day earlier when I had to go to Cap Choeng/O'Smach. The Thai Cambodian border crossing where I would cross into Cambodia to see some Khmer friends and let Kang spend an hour trying her luck at the casino. Later we crossed back into Thailand and trading the visa stamping formalities that allowed me to stay another month residing blissfully in the Kingdom of Thailand. We made our way to our waiting transport. Sanruan the Thai gentleman that was our driver was patiently waiting with amiability. We hit the 2 lane black top highway for our journey north back to Surin and my thoughts turned to the Bangkok monks in Wat Suhthat. They had told us of a Wat in Surin province, near Prassat that had cast images of Ra Hu eating the Moon, know as “Ra Who Om Jon”.

Could we find this temple” I asked Sanruan. Yes he thought we could, so after stopping at a Wat in Prassat and securing directions we headed

in a westerly direction through the brilliant green country of rice fields, water buffaloes and simple Issan farmer folk. After coming to a

large Wat we turned south turn onto an unpaved road and continued. There standing in a sap green rice paddy a temple with a

magical quality appeared. We hardly dared to breath lest this vision should dissipate as a mist.



Yet after approaching the vision remained and monks and children came into view. The children were from a nearby

school and were busy sweeping and cleaning the grounds as a happy, laughing, boisterous bunch. We then learned from the monks that this Wat named “Si Lum Yong” was to be dedicated and blessed the following day by 500 monks who would be arriving. We then had an audience with 2 of Thailand's revered monks; Pra's. Long Pu Kee and Long Pu Hong. The later being very old and having a man to help him be heard as he spoke very softly between dips of betel nut.
I of course could only decipher a word or two while listening. Later while purchasing the Ra Hu

statuette we learned of the upcoming lunar eclipse. that would occur the following night

So on 07 September 2006 all the preparations had been made, the Buddha statues along with Ganesh and Rahu were arrayed on the table standing on the edge of the soi.

All candles and incense were black along with the offerings of food. Black eggs, black chicken and even black rice. This was a neighborhood event. and lasted most of the night. While neighbors talked and socialized the moon, earth and sun moved toward their celestial rendezvous. The event came in time and the shadow of the earth passed across the face of the moon albeit partially, prayers were said, candles and incense burned and hopes and dreams swirled toward the heavens.